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Where am I going?
Highlight Hiker Blog
New Blaze: Bearfort Ridge Trail, Green Loop, Abram S. Hewitt State Forest
September 6, 2020
One of my favorite things about hiking are the people you meet along the way. While I seek out solitude, it’s such a pleasure to stop and have conversations with people who share my passion for wandering the woods. Sometimes it’s just a hello, but sometimes it’s a great way to stop, rest and trail talk with fresh faces from different walks of life. With a pandemic going on and months upon months of isolation, I have to say it’s really nice to talk to people, no matter how brief the interaction is. I miss the human connection. And, a personal note to the awesome couple kicking ass on the trail that I met during my last mile: I was so dehydrated and tired when we were chatting roadside that I kept saying “Wanaque” when I met “Waywayanda”. I realized my mistake after I got home. These are the things that happen to your brain when you push past the limits of what your body expects!
In any case… another benefit of meetings along the trail is that it gives me an opportunity to learn about myself, and I’m sure most of the people I cross don’t even know they are instructing me. The power of observation and willingness to learn, adapt and change make my short interactions with others very important. For example, I’m the kind of hiker who doesn’t stop. I take a slower, more steady pace, sure. I stop to take photos and videos, yes. But I don’t know how to take an earnest break. Y’know: sit a spell. Take off my boots and socks, stop to recuperate or just to take in the beauty around me. I just GO.
I am keenly aware that before I thru-hike the AT (one day), I need to change this habit. I need to STOP. I need to be ok with resting more than a few minutes. Give the human machine a break. I was thinking about this all morning and promised myself I would take a break on today’s 6-miler through Abram S. Hewitt State Forest. And wouldn’t you know it…? The first couple I met on my way, within the first mile of climbing up Bearfort Mountain… were taking a long break on the side of the trail. They were simply relaxing. He was lying down in the grass, she was sitting comfortably next to him. They were talking. They were chillin’. And I thought to myself, ‘Well, if that isn’t confirmation of my needing to take breaks, nothing is!’. Lovely couple, by the way and I would run into them later. But they would leave the park far ahead of me why….? BECAUSE I TOOK A LONG BREAK! So thank you to them for A. reinforcing my lesson and B. the good laughs at the Earnest Walker scenic viewpoint.
I met a lot of other people along the way, most of them my age (which rarely happens, its usually the 20-somethings here on weekends), and I tried to learn something from each of them. From one couple I learned not to be the beast of burden for my hiking partner. Lesson learned: if my hiking partner is perfectly capable of carrying their load, then they shall. Side note: that actually is a good life lesson for an old broad who doesn’t always know when to say no. Don’t take on the burdens of others when others are capable to carry their own. From a group of hikers I learned that if you need to stretch your boots, you can take out the soles, dampen newspapers, cram those bad bays in your boots overnight and when they have dried? Voila! Stretched boots! You think that works??? And lastly, from a short observation of three young ladies I learned how cooperative hiking helps everyone in your party, especially when faced with a trail challenge.
Now, about the trail itself… when I arrived, I had planned to hike north on the Quail trail (orange blaze), connect with the Earnest Walker (yellow blaze) and then travel south down the Bearfort Ridge trail (white blaze) to take in the scenic views on the latter half of my hike. I estimated it would be 5 - 6 miles of walking. I had some familiarity with the terrain here from my previous hike, and I knew it was going to be a monster of a loop. I thought I was pretty well prepared with three 32 oz. Nalgene bottles in my pack, but found out on trail that the protein in my last 32 oz. bottle was bad. Nasty. Undrinkable. Spoiled. So I had to hike the last 2 miles in the heat with 12 oz of water, which hasn’t proven to exactly be enough for me in the past. And, of course, I had made the decision to end of the hike with the toughest section, where 32 oz. of protein water would have come in handy! Once I realized that my drink was spoiled, I added my emergency single portion of collagen protein and a squeeze of Mio Energy (with caffeine) to stretch the last 12 oz of water through the last push. It… woooooorked….? Maaaaybe? I mean, my body made it, but my brain was foggy and my energy was completely tapped until I got food and water at home.
The other component that I was aware of (but willfully ignored) was that this was my first hike back after vacation. I knew that I had used very different muscle groups walking through sand during our two weeks on the Cape, and so maybe choosing a hike with 1,500’ elevation gain wasn’t exactly the best plan, but I figured…. WHY NOT? In reality I just limped through the last 1.5 miles. For real. Because I had a quarter size blister that, despite my treating halfway through the hike, continued to expand and grow. I got through despite all this agony and actually will still tell you I had fun on this hike because A. I’m stubborn and I GO, and B. When the going got tough I was smart enough to STOP.
All that being said, let’s talk logistics. The NY/NJ Trail Conference is in the process of creating a new blaze, and with that they have also decided to update the current trails at Abram S. Hewitt. So now, rather than the Quail and Bearfort (orange/white blaze, respectively) they are creating one continuous loop, named the Bearfort Ridge loop and blazing it green. This was my loop. They are also creating a new trail which will be pink to the west of the former Bearfort Trail. I saw the new trail head for this pink trail, but since it hasn’t been completed, I didn’t want yet to tread on it (that was before I realized that my protein drink had spoiled). If you’re interested in learning more, check out their latest update here. The signage they left wasn’t clear of the changes in progress and there was a lot of trail talk about the confusion of the new blaze color.
I’m very excited for the new pink trail. I don’t think they’ll be done this season, which means I can still technically get map 116 completed yet this year. I’m really close, folks! Only four more 6+ milers and I’ll have hiked all marked trails on map #116!! WISH ME LUCK!
But for now, on to more important things…. like the story that the pictures tell of my massive adventures into the rocky wild of Abram S. Hewitt State Forest!
Parking is available up and down Warwick Turnpike.
Each parking area has room for 3 cars. There is other roadside parking on the opposite side of the road at the bottom of the hill, parking at Highlands Preserve park and behind 3 Roads Deli (please do not park in the parking lot for the deli).
This was all the information supplied at the trail head about the new changes.
Not a whole lot of description. It would have been nice had someone written up a few sentences to let hikers know about the green trail blazes.
The welcome kiosk at the Warwick Turnpike trail head.
The trail head for Abram S. Hewitt at Warwick Turnpike.
Trail signage at the Warwick Turnpike trail head.
It's almost all up from here!
We've gone from bear season to snake season. As the temperatures cool down, the snakes will warm themselves on any rock that has been heated by the sun. Many of those rocks are on the trail, because there is a gap in the forest canopy where the trail is. Please keep in mind that snakes will not harm you if unprovoked. They are important to our ecosystem and eat the rodents you hate. Give them some space. Most snakes will move away on your approach.
This is not a snake house.
The newly minted Green/Blue Dot trail is the former white trail at the southern end of the Bearfort Ridge trail. This will lead you to the waterfall and several parking pull-off spots on Warwick Turnpike.
The next time I came to this intersection, I gave a victorious howl. For now, I was just documenting the journey. No idea what lay ahead.
It is late summer in New Jersey: cooler temps, green forest, and shorter days.
The new neon green blaze is pretty hot.
There must be an ant buffet in this dead tree. Look at all the woodpecker holes! And they went all the way to the crown!
Asters dot the landscape.
An easy crossing over Cooley Brook at this dry time of year.
The terrain is rocky, and the higher in elevation you go, the bigger the rocks on the eastern side of the new Bearfort Loop (formerly the Quail trail/orange blaze).
As with the new growth in the spring, you can tell that fall is due for its arrival by first looking at the forest floor. Small signs of the looming hibernation are everywhere.
In September, Cooley Brook is dry, but signs of the water bed are clear.
The further up you go, the bigger the rock walls.
The terrain changes and the rocks are flatter but distinctively larger than when you began at 800'.
This trail width only lasts a short while. It is mostly single track, and will remain so for the rest of the hike, with the exception of the Earnest Walker scenic viewpoints.
Green single track as far as you can see.
Glacial erratic can be found almost everywhere you look.
One last crossing of Cooley Brook, a seasonal water source.
This one section of the trail is covered in jumpseed. It's so lush and gorgeous. Much like the huckleberry forest floor that I encountered in Cape Cod, only denser.
A closer look at the jumpseed.
You can see the difference the altitude makes in the terrain. These bad boys can be found around 1200'.
This is the secondary spine of Bearfort Mountain. The western side has the higher altitude, but this side has the easier terrain.
That is, until you meet the Earnest Walker trail. Then it's like this on an easy section.
Wall splits are not uncommon along the trail.
As you get closer to Surprise Lake, the trail widens significantly.
Hey, baby. Nice boulders!
Surprise Lake at Abram S. Hewitt State Forest, looking north.
Surprise Lake at Abram S. Hewitt State Forest, looking south.
Walking along the Earnest Walker, for which I have the utmost in love/hate relationships.
Classic rhododendron coverage for the Appalachian region.
Yep. That's the trail. Welcome to the Earnest Walker!!
The Ernest Walker is a jumble of rocks... until the jumble of rocks goes straight up. Then it's a jumble of scrambles. I'm not a particularly tall human being, so it takes me a little more time to find my line than my long-legged counterparts, but it wasn't a problem to pick my over any of the scrambles on this loop.
The scenic views start here on the loop. What you can't see is that just to the right was the relaxing couple. They were taking a break in the shade of the tree. I figured they either took a shortcut, or they passed me at Surprise Lake while I was tending to my blister for the first time. After they pushed on I actually took their resting spot and tended to my blister a second time.
I don't care who you are when you've walked 3 miles and you get to expansive vistas with misty mountains and the New York City skyline in view, you can help but feel inspired by the beauty of it, and be impressed with your ability of your body to get you there.
Photos can never do long views justice. It's much better in person.
You can see shadowy skyscrapers in the distance. Visibility was quite good today. Again, the view was plainer in person than it is in the photo.
Can you see the city???
At the rest spot there was more signage about the route changes, but this was it!
Just another long last look at the view after tending to my ever growing blister. My shoes are too big, that's the problem. I need better fitting boots.
When you leave the scenic view, you'll immediately turn off the the Earnest Walker and follow a true ridge trail on Bearfort Ridge. You will continue to climb until it's time to descend near the end of the route. It's a very steep descent with some scrambles. But for now, you just walk along the ridge and climb.
Nice erratic!
This little blue tailed skink was showing off. He didn't leave my side and kept posing for the camera.
it would dart around in circles as if to say, "Is this my best side?" then it would pause for a picture. So skinking adorable! (dah dum dum)
The scenic view extends along the ridgeline until you enter back into the forest, a few hundred feet away. After that you'll have little peekaboo views here and there all along the ridgeline.
The ridge, however, is exposed and hot under the late summer sun. A brimmed hat or sunscreen (and more water than you think you'll need) are important to have in your pack.
The goldenrod is in full bloom. Fall is definitely on its way!
This small black rat snake was sunning itself on a warm rock before my big bumbling feet came crashing along. I waited until he had time to slither away before I pushed on.
Here's a nice example of the peekaboo views I was telling you about. Once the trees drop their leaves, this view will go on forever. But for now, we still have full canopy obscuring its gloriousness.
The ridgeline dramatically zips into pine forests at these higher elevations. Thin, but fragrant, they are a pleasure and a welcome respite from the rocks!
Yep. Still the trail. How lucky are we that we can walk right through this? It's beautiful!
The pine! If I could, I would record the smell of walking through these pine trees. Maybe pitch pine? Or Scots Pine? I'm not adept at telling the difference between pines.
What you can't see is that the trail drops off... just PLOP! Gone. It requires some scrambling to get down. This scramble was easy.
This scramble was a different story. This one required some thinking and careful picking, especially for a short person!
Just another rock scramble on the way south on Bearfort Ridge loop (west)!
On this portion of the trail you only climb down to climb back up. Just before this ridge line was when I realized the problem with my water supply. I sat down in the shade for a solid five minute just to cool off and bring down my heart rate in order to conserve as much energy as possible.
Oh! What's that? A little bit of view? I'll take that for motivation to keep walking no matter the obstacle!
No matter how bad I feel, walking on the spine of a mountain always makes me happy.
On the map, in the middle of Bearfort Ridge (west), is a scenic view. It isn't the city skyline, but rather a high meadow nestled among the ridges of Bearfort Mountain.
The high ridge walls were deeply cracked, and held int he vegetation like the glass of a terrarium.
After a nice break at the scenic view (in the shade), I climbed up yet another scramble and when I reached the top, I was greeted with this gorgeous sight. I think this was my favorite moment of this hike, even though at this point I was feeling weary, thirsty and my heel was throbbing despite all the repair I'd done to the blister.
Aaaaaand then there was more of this. But I didn't curse about it, I just kept going. Because that's what I do best.
The funny thing about Bearfort Ridge loop (west) is that it feels like the terrain is on repeat: high ridge with pine, forest depths with rock scrambles... back and forth while you ascend and descend along the ridge.
Only a few strands of cottongrass left to be blown about by the late summer breezes.
Twin boulders!
This is also where you can take your long last breath of sweet pine scented air.
See how the ridge disappears? That's the start of the descent I was telling you about. I think the hawk above should give you a little perspective.
When I realized I only had a half mile left to go from this point I bellowed a victorious shout... only to hear laughter behind me. I didn't care. I WAS ALMOST DONE.
Happiness is getting back to where you began.
Now just the nail biting road walk alongside Warwick Turnpike up the hill to the car. And where I would talk to the lovely couple I met and say "Wanaque" about three times when I meant "Waywayanda." Best. Day. Ever.